Instructions


title: "Paco pants: Sewing Instructions"


Une note sur la couture se termine

Avant de commencer, vous voudrez décider de votre méthode de finition de couture, ou comment vous rangez les coutures crues le long des jambes de votre pantalon pour les empêcher de s'effilocher. Il y a beaucoup d'options pour cela. Les choix communs sont le serrage des bords bruts, ou l'utilisation de coutures françaises pour enfermer les bords bruts.

Pour ces instructions, nous supposerons que vous utilisez un sergeur pour les finitions de couture, mais nous fournirons également des alternatives. Parmi les autres options pour la finition des coutures figurent la garniture avec des cisailles roseuses, coudre un zig-zag le long du bord de la couture pour l'empêcher de s'effilocher, ou de lier avec ruban adhésif.

Étape 1 : Construire les poches arrière

Are you planning to insert welt pockets in the back of your Paco pants? Is so, awesome! This is arguably the trickiest part, and we'll accomplish it first. If not, you can skip ahead to the next step, preparing the front pockets.

Construct the welt pockets at the back of your trousers, including the pocket bag.

Poches de Welt

Construire une poche de soudure est une technique qui est utilisée est différents vêtements. C'est la raison pour laquelle il est branché sur sa propre page de documentation.

Il y a à la fois une documentation écrite et une série vidéo qui vous montre comment le faire, donc même si vous n'avez jamais fait de poches soudées auparavant, vous allez vous passer.

À la documentation des poches de soudure

Étape 2 : Préparez les poches avant

Your pockets are cut from a lining material, which can save on weight and bulk, but also means that you'll want to hide them a little bit inside the side seam, so the lining doesn't show. The flap along the outside seam of each leg is for just this purpose.

If you are using a serger, serge the curved edges of your pocket pieces. Then, serge along the long edges of the pocket flaps.

Front pockets with serged edges

Étape 3 : Attacher des poches à un pantalon

With good sides together, line up the markings on the edge of the pocket bag with the ends of the flap along the outside seam of the front leg. Sew together. Repeat for second leg.

Pockets sewn to front pants

Now do the same with the back legs. With good sides together, line up the markings on the edge of the pocket bag with the ends of the flap along the outside seam of the back leg. Before sewing, make sure that your left leg front and back are attached to one pocket, and your right leg front and back are attached to the other. Sew together.

Press all seams toward the pants (away from the pocket bag).

Pressed pockets

Facultatif : Vous pouvez dessiner ici un millimètre ou deux à partir de la couture de chaque côté du sac de poche, pour sécuriser les volets et le sac de poche ensemble de la façon dont vous les avez pressés.

Understitched pockets

Étape 4 : Préparez les coutures latérales et le sac de poche

You should now have two big pieces, each with a front and back leg attached by a pocket.

Take one of the pieces, and place the front and back leg good sides together. Align the outer side seam, so that the side seam of the leg pieces match up, and the pocket bag edges are aligned, with good sides together.

Étape 5 : Coudre les coutures latérales

You'll sew two separate seams to stitch up your side seams while leaving your pockets open.

Start at the top of the leg pieces. Sew along the side seam, pivoting as you reach the pocket bag. You can also shorten your stitch length here to reinforce the corner of the pocket opening. Follow the side seam, pivoting again and ending at the top of the pocket.

Next, you'll close the bottom of the pocket bag and stitch the rest of the side seam. Start at the bottom edge of the pocket bag, sewing along the bottom of the pocket, then pivoting when you get to the side seam of the pants. You can use a shorter stitch length for the first few stitches on the side seam, to reinforce the bottom of the pocket opening. Sew all the way down the leg side seam.

Repeat for second leg.

Sewn up side leg

Étape 6: Terminer les coutures latérales

Finishing these seams requires a touch of delicacy, especially around the tops of the pockets.

It would be difficult to finish the top part of the side seam with a serger, so we'll use a zig-zag stitch. Starting at the top of the side seam, zig-zag stitch along the raw edge of the seam allowance, pivoting around the pocket opening. Continue the zig-zag stitch up the side of the pocket, unless you've serged your pockets already (in which case you can stop when you reach the pocket).

The bottom opening of the pocket is a tight corner. To finish the seam around this corner, zig-zag stitch the raw edge of the seam allowance, starting where it joins the pocket, pivoting at the corner and continuing about 5 cm (2 in.) down the side seam. You can continue finishing the side seam with a zig-zag stitch all the way down. Alternatively, you can serge the side seam, making sure to stop the line of serger stitches a little ways from the pocket.

Assurez-vous de sécuriser ces points de serger. Ils ne seront pas pris dans d'autres coutures, donc ils risquent de se détricoter s'ils ne sont pas sécurisés.

Repeat for second leg.

Zig-zag stitched side seams

Press the side seams toward the front.

Cela peut sembler contre-intuitif, car beaucoup de pantalons suggèrent de presser les coutures latérales vers le dos. Cependant, avec les poches de seam, vous voudrez que les poches soient pressées vers l'avant du pantalon. Vos poches se battront si vous appuyez sur la couture à l'arrière, donc nous appuierons tout sur à l'avant. Cela se traduira par une finition plus lisse.

Les coins d'une ouverture de poche sont l'un des endroits les plus susceptibles d'usure ou d'usure surtout si vous utilisez vos poches beaucoup. Si vous êtes inquiet de déchirer les coins de vos poches, ou si votre tissu est plus délicat, vous pouvez renforcer les ouvertures de poche avec des tacks de barre le long de la ligne de couture, juste en dehors des ouvertures de poche.

Étape 7 : Poche de l'ancre à la taille

The pockets in Paco are anchored at the waist. This means that you can put things in your pockets without them becoming unsightly bump that’s just dangling around in your trouser leg.

To anchor each pocket, align the top of the pocket with the mark along the waistline of your pattern. Sew a line of basting stitches inside your seam allowance to hold the pocket in place.

Anchored pocket bags showing basted seam

Étape 8 : Coudre et finir les coutures

Align the inseams with good sides together, then sew up the inseams. Finish the seams the same way you finished the side seams. Press inseams to the back.

Sewn up inseam

Étape 9 : Coudre et finir la couture de crotch

To attach the individual legs, flip one leg good side out (it doesn't matter which leg), then place it inside the other leg, good sides together. You should now have what looks like just one pant leg, with wrong sides visible. Align the center front, center back, and inseams of each leg, then pin along the length of the crotch seam. Sew and finish the crotch seam.

Si vous coudez du centre avant au centre arrière, Il est plus facile de maintenir les droits de couture au dos lorsqu'ils se nourrissent à travers la machine.

Crotch seam

Étape 10 : Placer les oeillets pour la chaîne de dessin (optionnel)

Mark the middle of your waistband length. Fold one of your waistband pieces double, and mark the middle of the width (do not take the seam allowance into account).

A bit to the left and right of this, you can add two eyelets to pass a drawstring through. Because your Paco pants have elastic in the waistband, as well, this is a nice detail, but is not required.

Il vaut mieux ajouter un renfort

Si vous avez choisi un tissu glissant, drapey, ou mince, vous pourriez vouloir ajouter quelques renforts derrière ces oeillets. Un peu d'interfaçage ou un reste de denim fera très bien.

Waistband with eyelets

Étape 11 : Préparez l'élastique de la taille

There’s no magic formula for the length of your elastic. So you wrap it around your waist and pull it tight until you get a good fit. Paco is cut to sit at the high hip, so make sure your elastic is long enough to sit comfortably at the high hip.

Mark this length, cut the elastic, and join the two ends together.

Elastic joined with a series of zig-zag stitches

Étape 12 : Rejoignez la ceinture

Place the two waistband pieces good sides together, and align the short edges. Sew the short edges together, then press open. These will be inside the waistband, so you don't need to finish the edges of these seams unless your fabric is particularly likely to fray.

Joined waistband pieces

Fold the waistband double along the length, with good sides out, and press. This fold will be the top of your waistband.

Étape 13 : Attacher la ceinture

You have two options for attaching your waistband. One is a bit simpler, but leaves an exposed seam on the inside. The other is a bit more fiddly, but it encloses the raw edges of your fabric.

La méthode la plus simple

Keep your waistband folded double, and place the elastic inside. Make sure to align the place where the elastic is joined with the back of the waistband (opposite the eyelets).

Find the center front of your waistband (easy if there are eyelets, if not just fold it double), and align that with the center front seam of your pants. Make sure that your waistband is outside of your pants, with good sides together. Pin in place.

Pensez à vos oeillets

Si vous avez fait des oeillets dans votre ceinture, vérifiez qu'elles sont placées vers l'extérieur, pas l'intérieur de votre ceinture.

Next, align the center backs and pin in place, adding additional pins around the waistband as needed.

Sew the waistband to the pants, as close to the the elastic as you can, but don’t sew into the elastic.

Waistband sewn with simple method

It’s fine to not sew too close the first time around, and once your elastic is attached and encased, make a second round to sew it a bit more snugly.

Remove any basting stitches from the tops of the pocket bags.

Finish the seam with a serger or other method.

La méthode de couture fermée

Open the waistband. You will still be able to see the fold along its length, but you will be working with each side of the waistband individually.

Find the center front of your waistband (easy if there are eyelets, if not just fold it double), and align that with the center front seam of your pants. Make sure that your waistband is outside of your pants, with good sides together. Pin in place.

Mind your eyelets

To make sure your eyelets will end up on the outside, make sure they are closer to the top of your waistband, above the fold, for now.

Open waistband sewn to pants

Next, align the center back of your waistband with the center back seam. Pin in place. Then, add additional pins around the waistband as needed.

Sew the waistband to the pants.

Press the waistband up. Press the seam allowance in on the opposite side of the waistband, maintaining the fold along the center of the waistband.

Refold the waistband, turning half the waistband to the inside. Pin so that the seam allowance on the inside is just below the seam joining the waistband to the pants, and pin in place around the waistband. From the outside, stitch in the ditch, catching the inner waistband as you go.

Waistband sewn with enclosed seams

Étape 14 : Préparez l'élastique de manche

As you did with the waistband elastic, wrap the elastic for your cuff around your ankle and pull it tight until you get a good fit.

Mark this length, cut the elastic, and join the two ends together. Repeat for the other cuff elastic.

Elastic joined with zig-zag stitching

Étape 15 : Rejoignez les poignets

Fold each cuff with good sides together, aligning the short edges. For each cuff, sew the short edges together, then press open. These will be inside the cuff, so you don't need to finish the edges of these seams unless your fabric is particularly likely to fray.

Joined cuffs

Fold each cuff double along the length, with good sides out, and press. This fold will be the bottom of your cuffs.

Étape 16 : Attacher les poignets

You will attach your cuffs the same way that you attached the waistband. As with the waistband, there are two options - a simpler choice, and a choice without exposed seams on the inside.

If your sewing machine has a detachable bed (usually removed to expose the "free arm" for sewing sleeve cuffs), this will make sewing the cuffs easier.

La méthode la plus simple

Keep your cuffs folded double, and place the elastic inside.

Align the seam in the cuff with the inseam of the pants. Make sure that your cuff is outside of your pants, with good sides together. Pin in place, then pin the rest of the way around the cuff.

Épingler les poignées

L'élastique rendra les poignets plus difficiles à épingler. Pour vous assurer que vos poignets sont épinglés équitablement au pantalon, placez votre deuxième épingle sur le côté opposé de la jambe qui s'ouvre du premier. Vous pouvez étirer l'élastique pour vous assurer que tout est aligné en douceur, puis placez vos broches suivantes à mi-chemin entre les deux premières. Continuez de cette façon, épinglant à mi-chemin entre les autres épingles, jusqu'à ce que vous vous sentiez confiant il y en a assez.

Sew the cuff to the pants opening, as close to the the elastic as you can, but don’t sew into the elastic.

Cuffs sewn with simple method

Finish the seam with a serger or other method.

La méthode de couture fermée

Open the cuff. You will still be able to see the fold along its length, but you will be working with each side of the cuff individually.

Align the seam in the cuff with the inseam of the pants. Make sure that your cuff is outside of your pants, with good sides together. Pin in place, then pin the rest of the way around the cuff.

Sew the cuff to the pants.

Sewing the open cuffs to the pants

Press the cuff away from the pants. Press the seam allowance in on the opposite side of the cuff, maintaining the fold along the center of the cuff.

Refold the cuff, turning half the cuff to the inside. Pin so that the seam allowance on the inside is just past the seam joining the cuff to the pants, and pin in place around the cuff. From the outside, stitch in the ditch, catching the inner cuff as you go.

Cuffs sewn with enclosed seams

Étape 17 : découper les poignets et la ceinture (facultatif)

If you have wider cuff elastic, you may want to stitch a horizontal line halfway up the cuff. This will hold your elastic in place and help keep it from folding or twisting. Make sure to stretch the elastic evenly as you sew, so that it gathers the fabric evenly. (If you sew without stretching the elastic, you risk lumpy gathers and a leg opening too narrow to get your foot through.)

If you like the look, you can also sew more than one line of stitches, evenly spaced between the top and bottom of the cuff.

You can do the same for the waistband.

Waistband and cuffs with decorative stitching

Si vous mettez des oeillets pour un cordon, coupez une ligne de points au-dessus des oeillets et une ligne séparée sous les oeillets, laissant un canal assez large pour votre cordon.

Étape 18 : Fil autour de la taille (facultatif)

If you put eyelets in your waistband, thread a drawstring through one eyelet, around the waist, and out of the other eyelet.

Il y a des outils pour faciliter cette tâche, mais presque tout le monde a une épingle de sécurité simple. Épingler la broche de sécurité à une extrémité de votre cordon, puis la pousser à travers le canal. La broche de sécurité sera plus facile à manipuler à travers le tissu, et elle tirera le cordon avec elle.

Paco threaded with drawstring

Étape 19: Profitez de votre pantalon Paco !

You did it! Way to go!